Posted an enquiry on to 'Technical' and hope no-one minds if, just this once, I ask it here as well........."I'm familiar enough with the normal hand sprayer that screws in to a special designed can i.e. the can has a female thread about 1.5" across and the male thread of the sprayer screws in to it. However, what sort of sprayer do you use for the Underbody Seal Schutz. The can in which it's supplied has a male thread of similar size therefore you can't use the same sprayer as for normal waxoyl?"
Furthermore - what are peoples experience of Waxoyl in the long term and more specifically I'd like to do the sills and would like a permanent hard finish capable of being washed off along with the rest of the car. I believe they do a Stoneshield product that might do the job. Anyone used it?
Thanks.
KB.
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The waxoyl I've used comes in a can with about 1.5" dia male thread - the same as the black gungy panel guard stuff (from Machine Mart I think it was) (dries hard eventually). Shake them both well before use. I use an el-cheapo shutz gun from a compressor to apply both.
I'm a firm believer in waxoil in box members and places where the sun don't shine.
Martin
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All I can say is both my Mustangs were waxoyled diligently and I never saw a spot of rot anywhere.
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I've used Waxoyl for over 20 years and I've now changed to Dinitrol. Waxoyl is great on clean, not rusty box sections but it doesn't seem to penetrate any rust already present. I've had two cars suffer inside out rust in box sections despite being treated annually with waxoyl, and yes, before you ask, it was applied properly with an airline, receiving a good coating which was still there nicely coating the crunchy rust which had developed. Practical Classics did a test a few years ago on all the wax-based rust treatments available and Dinitrol came out on top as it penetrates really well and is easy to apply being much thinner than waxoyl. The waxoyl hardly penetrated at all, even if thinned down.
The downside is the cost of Dinitrol. The cheapest I've found is around £10 + vat per litre. Cheaper than welding in new metal though.
On the underside where it would be abraded I use 3125 and then a coat of body schutz on top. This seems to work well.
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Thanks for replies - both pro and anti.
KB.
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Nick, it's intersting what you say, as I treated 2 rust patches on the rear hatch of an old banger of mine. Both were rust spots gone bad, so I sanded them back a little to get rid of the loose paint and rust, then treated one with waxoil and the other with dinitrol (3125 I think). 2 years later, and the dinitrol one is definatley worse than the waxoil one, with rust coming back through.
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Waxoyl every time. The stuff stays on and repels all the rubbish thrown at it. The best place I've used it is the underside of the chrome bumpers. These are basically low grade steel and the insides catch the rot first.
So far as I'm aware the bumpers are original (1972) and waxoyled. It's the surfaces now that are showing age but the insides are rot free.
One word of advice and it might be obvious. If you are going to waxoyl your car makes sure it is completely and absolutley bone dry. It's great at keeping moisture out but it's excellent at keeping moisture in.
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.......>"One word of advice and it might be obvious. If you are going to waxoyl your car makes sure it is completely and absolutley bone dry. It's great at keeping moisture out but it's excellent at keeping moisture in". Thats a worrying observation, 3500S. I have, in the past, had cars steam cleaned locally and they then sprayed the underside/wheelarches with waxoyl straight after. They said it didn't matter that it was still wet as the waxoyl displaced the moisture. Part of the notes on the tin says......."chases out moisture to leave a .....etc. Thus implying that some dampness isn't too important. However the Waxoyl Underbody Seal does specifically say apply to a dry surface.
KB.
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I've always found Waxoyl pretty good, insofar as anything really works in beating rust.
My only gripe is the pathetic spray gun they supply. It seems very prone to clogging, even with the denser bits of Waxoyl itself that float around in the tin. Whenever I use it I seem to spend as much time taking it all apart and poking wire through as actually spraying.
Then I get back under the car and get about 10 seconds of good blasting spray before it gradually dries up and dripples back down my arm.
The sliding 'barrel' with the spray nozzle has a disconcerting habit of suddenly springing off, letting all the contents out over the floor in one go. I put a jubillee clip on losely to stop this.
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I have found it best if you stand the tin of Waxoyl in a bucket of hot water. This thins it down for applying and keeps nozzle spray clear.
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The Practical Classics tests were pretty conclusive and back up my observations over many years, that's not to say others may have made different observations! Waxoyl doesn't seem to penetrate any significant amounts of rust, whereas Dinitrol 3125 does. Dinitrol is a 'lighter' wax though and is probably more prone to abrasion or weathering over time which is why I cover it with body schutz anywhere other than inside a box section. I think either is ok on sound metal.
Regarding applying on damp or wet vehicles, I try and avoid it. I usually do the job in the early autumn after good hosing followed (hopefully) by few dry days. The products may 'chase' moisture but to where? A corner of a box section?
I used the waxoyl handpump once and then binned it and bought a compressor and a proper applicator with extension hose. It's worth hiring one to do a proper job, I think. It's very satisfying to be blasting wax in one end of a chassis member and seeing it puff out of the other end 12ft away. Mind you, you end up tasting wax for days afterwards, I hope it's not carcinogenic!
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