Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - Lrac

For years I used Copper Anti Seize on brakes then after all the bad press I purchased Aluminium Anti Seize but before I got around to using any of it on my brakes I have now purchased Ceramic Grease..

is there any reason not to use Aluminium Anti Seize?

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - gordonbennet

The proper red brake grease is the stuff to use, if that's the same as ceramic grease carry on.

Problem with coppaslip it does attack rubber seals and dust covers, i have no idea what the AAS stuff will do to them or if it's compatible with brake fluid should it come in contact.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - Lrac

The proper red brake grease is the stuff to use, if that's the same as ceramic grease carry on.

Problem with coppaslip it does attack rubber seals and dust covers, i have no idea what the AAS stuff will do to them or if it's compatible with brake fluid should it come in contact.

Would I be correct in assuming red grease is for piston / seal contact? I was using coppaslip on metal to metal contact areas until I read that it dries out. I just wondered if the aluminium version of this will do the same. I had an idea that it may have once been specified by some one like Audi although that may have been somebody quoting personal opinion as fact.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - gordonbennet

As well as prising back the piston dust seals and slipping some around the piston with a cotton bud during brake service, i use the red grease on sliders too because it doesn't affect the rubber boots of pin type sliders.

Can't help you with the other type.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - Wackyracer

I know back in the dark ages when I had my Hillman, the Rootes workshop manual used to specify white lithium grease for the contact patches on the drum brakes.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - Lrac

I know back in the dark ages when I had my Hillman, the Rootes workshop manual used to specify white lithium grease for the contact patches on the drum brakes.

Oh yes I remember those days when you would pull out the wheel bearings during a service and dunk them in a can of petrol with bare hands. Usually followed by a blast of air into the drums sending a cloud of dust everywhere. Never did understand what that big "A" sticker on the boxes of shoes stood for.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - Andrew-T

<< I was using coppaslip on metal to metal contact areas until I read that it dries out. I just wondered if the aluminium version of this will do the same. >>

I'm no expert in brake technology, but I would assume that anything 'wet' used in braking areas will soon 'dry out' due to the heat generated there. The point of using a different metal between surfaces which are commonly ferrous is to provide a weaker interface which is more easily separated than (say) a rusty steel nut on a steel bolt ? Copper oxidises less readily than ferrous metal too.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - galileo

<< I was using coppaslip on metal to metal contact areas until I read that it dries out. I just wondered if the aluminium version of this will do the same. >>

I'm no expert in brake technology, but I would assume that anything 'wet' used in braking areas will soon 'dry out' due to the heat generated there. The point of using a different metal between surfaces which are commonly ferrous is to provide a weaker interface which is more easily separated than (say) a rusty steel nut on a steel bolt ? Copper oxidises less readily than ferrous metal too.

Coppaslip was very good on exhaust manifold studs when the manufacturer didn't fit brass nuts, always used it when re-assembling the manifold. It was always used on turbine housing studs too, so well capable of coping with brake caliper temperatures.

Edited by galileo on 12/05/2017 at 14:55

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - Wackyracer

Coppaslip was very good on exhaust manifold studs when the manufacturer didn't fit brass nuts, always used it when re-assembling the manifold. It was always used on turbine housing studs too, so well capable of coping with brake caliper temperatures.

I think that is part of the joy of using it on steel parts that get hot, the carrier fluid might dry out but, leaves a copper layer to stop parts rusting together and stops oscillation between pad backplates and other brake components from creating noise.

For what it's worth, car manufacturers have gone to using copper plated steel nuts on exhaust parts now and they are a pain to get off. Last time I had to drop the whole exhaust by cutting it in suitable places so that I could get the rusted nuts off the DPF by grinding them away until I could unwrap the remains of them off the studs in the DPF flange. Assembly was done with a good helping of copper grease on all the threads. and new nuts.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - edlithgow

Think the aluminium anti-seze is likely to have similar mineral oil base to coppaslip, so it'd probably be contra-indicated for contact with rubber.

Its advantage is that aluminium is higher in the electrochemical series so its unlikely to cause electrochemical corrosion, which is a (probably largely theoretical) snag with copper.

I have some aluminium anti-seize I bought in Japan, (can't find anything here in Taiwan) so it'd be even harder to find out what is in it. I use it where the brake pad ears rest on the stainless steel caliper guides. I also make my own by rubbing aluminium in grease.

On the slider pins I use Japanese silicon grease with aluminium rubbed into it and PTFE thread seal tape. On the pistons I've used silicon grease but I have some red rubber stuff I'll probably use next time I strip them.

I bought some Bendix Ceramlube in Australia but it went missing in transit. IIRC it was pretty much a "universal" brake lube and could be used anywhere.

Aluminium Anti Seize V Copper V Ceramic Grease. - gordonbennet

Car makers should have been using stainless steel studs and bolts on exhaust manifolds and system right up to the first normal silencer.