A few years ago we hired a car in Singapore and drove across the causeway, heading for Malacca. Spent a very enjoyable day there, then drove on to KL. A waiter in Malacca advised us to avoid the motorway and drive across country as we would see more of Malaysian life. He even marked our map for us. It was a great drive. Spent another 24 hours in KL then headed off to the Cameron Highlands, where we spent several days. The climate up in the Highlands is perfect and we had a really great time, viewing the tea plantations, waterfalls, butterfly farms and agricultural areas. Leaving the CH we drove back down to sea level to Georgetown then across the fantastic bridge linking the mainland to Penang. Kept the car for another couple of days before handing it back.
Driving in Malaysia isn't difficult (they even drive on the left). Signs are clear and adequately posted. The other drivers seemed to behave reasonably. The only real problem we encountered was the occasional cloudburst which reduced visibility to a couple of yards. When this occurred we drove very, very slowly until we came to a place where it was safe to pull off the road. The downpours rarely last more than 20 minutes.
I'm sure you'll have a great time. Just stick to the speed limits, obey the signs and you shouldn't have any problems.
Have a good trip.
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I've driven in Langkawi a couple of times, one week in a Suzuki Vitara and another week in a tiny 800cc Perodua, or something.
As I remember, they drive same side as us, like Thailand, where I've done many thousands of miles.
The problem in Malaysia is the race and class structure and the way these and religion are used to divide and exploit. I'd better say no more about that.
HJ
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This link might be of interest, Aprilia;malaysiaupclose.wordpress.com/category/map-ipoh/
More than just Ipoh: for instance there is something about the racial mixture: malaysiaupclose.wordpress.com/category/about-racia.../
Its a bit sanitised, as it omits the in-fighting that flared up from time to time.
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I spent nearly two years there in the 1950s in a County Regiment during the emergency period and thought it was one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Much of my time was spent in the jungle searching for terrorists which was quite an experience but at that period Penang had been declared free of them and was the Far East Land Forces leave centre. Nortones?We were based at Ipoh and Sungei Sipot for a period and used to enter the jungle from the huge pipeline beyond those huge caves North of Ipoh, and wonder if your dad was the kind rubber plantation owner who used to invite a section of us at a time to his home where he had a swimming pool and free bar for the lads.. Wonderful man..
Returned there in the 80s on our 25th wedding anniversary and stopped in the south of the country and then a week in Penang and hired cars visiting old British Army camps but finding they had virtually gone.. No problem whatsoever driving and the roads were excellent. Extreme friendliness from the Malays. Sadly they seem to have a subservient role in the country and much of the business side appeared to be ran by the Chinese and Indians but that was only an impression.
So many beautiful areas in Malay including the Cameron Highlands and Penang. The hotels there provide a guide to any group who want a walk ! in the jungle to show you the snakes etc and well worth a trip. The only mistake we made on our trip was when we drove from Penang up to Alor Star spelling ? which is right up near the Thailand border which in my time was accustomed to westerners with the Army. However times had moved on and my wife was wearing shorts. It took a little while to realise what the frowns of disapproval from the women was about. They were so unused to seeing westerners that in a café we went into, where I was having a conversation with the waitress who was a student who could speak English, that a crowd gathered round to listen even though they wouldn?t understand what we were saying. So if you go outside the tourist areas make sure your wife has a skirt with her. However I am talking about the eighties so times may have changed. A very safe country to travel in and the hospitality excellent.
wemyss
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Wemyss: Unfortunately Dad was not the generous planter you recall, but a Staff Sergeant in the Intelligence Corps, on Operation Ginger. He had led troops on an earlier bash, but in 56-59 was desk bound in Ipoh. As you say, beautiful place, lovely people, and as children we found it an adventure. However, reality intruded occasionally with 25 pounders hitting the hills around Ipoh, and the occasional aircraft delivering loudspeaker calls and propaganda to get the CTs to surrender, plus the necessary (and fulfilled) rewards for ammunition and info. Dads office had a macabre wall chart: photos of CT wanted, those still at large and those wiped out. Noticed the female Malays at the time were not encumbered by Arabic clothing proscriptions. Might be culturally and practically necessary in the swirling sands of Arabia, but an appalling imposition in the sweaty, humid tropics. Kinta swimming club mean anything?
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Nortones, Don?t recall Kinta swimming club. Your Dad would probably have been in Tapper camp Ipoh. Alor Star (or Alor Setar) was the only instance I saw in Malaya in the 80s of a step back in time and was probably due to it being out of tourist areas. Just googled it and now find it is accessible from several UK Airports and is probably now a tourist area so will have no hang ups over western dress style.
The Intelligence Corps did an amazing job and how they got the info I can?t imagine but we were always briefed before jungle bashing on the names and numbers in a particular area. Some of those photos of the CTs you mention could have been taken of heads only as some of the Ghurkas would apparently cut off the heads to bring back for identification. Much better jungle around Ipoh in contrast to Johore in the South which was very swampy.
To return to motoring before I got told off do you recall the Austin Champ similar to the Land Rover but with a R.R. engine. Had never realised just what incredible terrain both these vehicles would tackle until I saw them operating in conditions which seemed impossible. I imagine your dad would have given you a demonstration in them. Apparently the land Rover was even better than the Champ.
wemyss
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If any of the old buildings in Georgetown are still standing (they were in 2001), then that's worth a look. But in 2001 they seem to have been left to decay and fall down so that redevelopment could take place. Another piece of history gone in the name of progress, though, of course, that happens everywhere.
HJ
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One of the Hotel staff Mr Choo on his day off, took us on a days trip round Georgetown in his car. As HJ says there was huge amounts of old Portuguese houses (It was their colony until the British took it off them) They were beautiful houses in a lovely shade of pink with arches and colonnades, all unoccupied and decaying.
He took us up a funicular ? steep railway up to a temple which is well worth a visit.
There was also a temple which he explained that during its construction the religion of it was changed three times and you could see this clearly.
It pays to have a guide as there was so much we would have missed without knowing. Royal turtles, butterfly houses and a myriad of exotic statues and reclining Buddha?s whatever that means.
One of my wife?s vivid memories was Penang airport which had posters all round the airport which showed a noose and underneath in English saying ?we hang drug carriers? or similar. Going through customs she whispered ?go through that channel he looks the nicest one? as if we were possible candidates for Georgetown prison.
Coincidentally the week we were there they hung two drug smugglers.
wemyss
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If any of the old buildings in Georgetown are still standing (they were in 2001) then that's worth a look. But in 2001 they seem to have been left to decay and fall down so that redevelopment could take place. Another piece of history gone in the name of progress though of course that happens everywhere.
They have preserved a lot of these buildings, If I recollect, Georgetown has some kind of heritage, UNESCO grants applied to preserve this
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Not sure whether they had a Champ on the fleet, but I know they had Jeeps - low, open topped thing with single screen at front. Got ferried about from cinema occasionally - the Cathay I recall. Dad had a Rover 75 - black. Not a good colour choice in tropical sun with leather seats! S5756 was the registration. Look out for it Aprilia; he left it behind for sale on commission. Never heard any more:) Base for MI was an office in Ipoh, so camp was visited rarely, except to go to the mess, and church services. Troops lived in tents - good old Army!
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Couple of points here - Aprillia - you'll have no problems with the roads/driving in Malaysia in general, although I wouldn't fancy the idea of driving in KL if I was on holiday (likewise Georgetown). Driving standards are generally pretty good, but the bad ones are really bad, and no real aggression (road rage etc.).
HJ - The 'old' buildings in Georgetown - did you mean the E&O Hotel? If so, I'm pleased to say it has been tarted up, to 5 star + standard, and well worth a stay. If you can't stay Aprillia, at least try the 'Tiffin' for some top notch nosh.
S6 1SW
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A couple of buildings away from the E&O is a very nice restaraunt called 36. For excellent local food - Guerney drive
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Ah, yes, the E & O. Fabulous - worth a look. Managed to get a tour of some of the suites. 6000 (yes 6000) sq ft for one. For what you get, some of the smaller suites are not badly priced by UK standards, but I didn't get to stay there. Had lunch there though. I stayed in a friends flat at Batu Feringhi. Great country for a holiday.
Yes, KL is a bit busy, as is Georgetown, but I'd have no qualms about driving in either - in fact I have. I'd endorse the comments about the rain. When it strikes, it really is best to pull over and let it die down.
JS
Edited by John S on 21/01/2008 at 16:51
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the land Rover was even better than the Champ. wemyss
Armoured versions? My company provided ex-Army Jeeps and Landrovers which had been armoured, I think, in Singagpore. I much preferred the Jeeps, more nimble and with 4WD and low range you could engage in an emergency simply by dropping a hand on them. The Landrovers then had awkward, cranked gear levers and getting 4WD and low range entailed stopping dead and operating a plunger which, as often as not, did not engage. They were also very clumsy vehicles. I believe the Champ was developed according to Army specs but they didn't much like it when they got it.
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In the jungle in Malaya they tended to use silent leg power and counter-ambush, IIRC:) Of the armoured transport, saw the Scout Ferret, and Scammel, but I presume these were used to deal with urban problems.
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This may be old hat Wemyss, but I wasn't previously aware of the Military Vehicle Trust: www.mvt.org.uk/Windscreens/ws2006_autumn.htm Has an item in the magazine re Champs.
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