There is hope.
After comment last week I decided to try and free the plug from a friends 1.3 Fiesta.
An Recommended garage in the south had been unable to get it out at it's last service.
Incidently there was a lot of rust coating the cylinder head.
Started by removing all the plugs and copperslipping them. The stuck one was still stuck - that springy feeling in the breaker bar was enough warning to not try to hard.
Plus Gas saved the day. The design of the head allowed a nice pool of plus gas to form and over two hours it soaked in nicely. The plug pinged off with a satisfying cracking noise and with very little pressure. The thread of all four plugs was perfect.
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Parp, Parp!
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Well done, Mr Toad. Of course, the reason why the heads go rusty and flakey is that, unlike almost all other heads these days, including the heads of pushrod Skoda Fabias, the heads of these iron age Ford engines are still cast iron.
HJ
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including the heads of pushrod Skoda Fabias, the heads of these iron age Ford engines are still cast iron.
I had a Skoda Estelle once - essentially the Fabias engine.
At the time I though I had the only Push Rod engined car still on the road. Imagine my suprise when I found a mate had wheeled a push-rod Ford Ka straight out of the showroom.
People will buy *anything*.
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Parp, Parp!
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Agree of course re. the head itself going rusty, but the problem with the plugs siezing can usually be attributed to either lack of Copperslip or over-tightening (always a danger with taper-seat plugs). The problem is compunded by the fact that Ford's own (Motorcraft) plugs are not cad plated externally, allowing corrosion on the plug surface, and breakage usually occurs at the thinest point just above the hex (spanner) area. Most plugs (NGK, Bosch etc.) are plated and do not corrode, and rarely break.
Regards, Adam
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Brilliant design - Henry Ford. I really love it when you do get the plugs out. If you haven't got a supply of compressed air on hand you run the risk of getting a load of that lovely grit falling into the cylinder when you change the plugs!
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If you haven't got a supply of compressed air on hand you run the risk of getting a load of that lovely grit falling into the cylinder when you change the plugs!
Yes, I noticed that!
If you're not expecting it it's very hard to avoid dropping it into the cylinder. (I wasn't expecting it)
Adam - Not sure. It was stuck fast. I'm a big lad using a 15 inch extender bar if it had just been a bit tight it would have come - when it did come after two hours of plus gas soaking it made a cracking noise as though the thing was coming unstuck. Surely if it frees up with a penetrating fluid there must be something sticking it in the first place. In support of your theory all the plugs were less than 12 months old and all the threads were perfect. Oh and you know about cars whereas I don't Didn't look like they'd been stuck by rust. I put them back in with liberal quantities of copperslip and tightened them with the palm of my hand over the business end of the rachet so as not to over-tighten.
Either way plus gas/WD40 did work in this case and may work for others thus saving a massive bill for removing the head and risk of disturbing the gasket.
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
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Hi Toad,
Interseting about the Bostik product - I will look out for that. Strange that a glue maunfacturer should get into anti-sieze products. S**t, shovel, and politicians come to mind !!
With regard to you own instance, it certainly sounds like a case of overtightening, and the PlusGas saved the day. Copperslip (or Bostik ??!!) will help, but remember that however sensitive we think our own elbows are, there is a specified torque setting for these taper-seat plugs. I think it is 20 Ft.Ilbs, but stand to be corrected as I am away from my van + data at the moment. It is certainly NOT very tight !!
Night night, Adam
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but remember that however sensitive we thinkour own elbows are, there is a specified torque setting for these taper-seat plugs. I think it is 20 Ft.Ilbs,
- Hmmm. I don't think I'd trust my Les Evans own brand Torque wrench fresh of the boat from China on something like that! At no point was my hand more than 1 inch away from the extender bar end - I reckon I've errred on the side of too loose rather than too tight now! I've learned the hard way that nuts/bolts done up too loose rarely give trouble. You can't say the same about over tightening!
It is certainly NOT very tight !!
- They certainly aren't very tight now! Finger tight plus a small fraction of a turn.
Incidently I didn't mention bostic! Perhaps you've been sniffing too much of the bostick and your eyes have gone funny!!! ;-)
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Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley.
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Bostik Never Seez . Far superior to any copper based anti seize products when subjected to this amount of heat . Bit expensive though.
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Is Never-seez the nickel based one?;if so it's banned in some countries-Sweden for example.
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Yes you are correct this is the same product. The can has a number of quite worrying warnings. Just that this stuff is so good on exhaust manifolds etc I do not know of any suitable alternative. I think copperslip tends to "dry out" a bit . I have used Rocol and this seems to be quite good.
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