2000 1.6 - crankshaft bolt - Honestjohn
Posted on behalf of "MartinTheJuggler"


sorry im new to this, was hoping to do a "thread?" ref the crankshaft bolt
saga. I am an DIY mechanic having rebuilt
a few engines tought me by my late father (a professional mechanic of some
30years). Having searched the internet for advice on undoing the said bolt,
apparantly a "crescent?" wrench is inappropriate due to a rubber insert in
the pulley and i have no
"air wrench" which appears to be the favourite. What i did was put a
homemade socket spanner onto the nut abut 90deg anticlockwise from the lower
wheel pivot arm and started the starter eeeeek! But it worked! After the job
my problem was retorqueing the bolt, now my worry is though i managed to
torque it to 100lbs, im finding the bolt on this car is not torqued
to that of others? surely 15lbs and 115 degrees is not as much as 180lbs i
see some others require with a 4+ ft bar and i forgot to put a new bolt on.
Now i propose getting a new bolt and re torqueing it correctly. I have done
about 170 miles as is, am i taking a bad chance it might come loose at
100lbs



Edited by Pugugly on 30/09/2008 at 19:38

2000 1.6 scenic crankshaft bolt - Number_Cruncher
There's *no* direct read across between the torque value and the angle tightening method, so, it's impossible to say with certainty that it will be OK.

Usually, when angle tightening is used, the bolt is put into its plastic defomation region, and usual good practice is to replace the bolt (some applications allow re-use if the bolt is measured to be below a specified length).

So, get a new bolt, and follow the specified tightening procedure properly - it's the only way to be sure.

The angle tightening method carried out approximately using a cheap protractor is far more accurate and repeatable in pre-loading the bolt than even the most accurate torque wrench in the world - it's the correct engineering specification for high performance joints.
2000 1.6 scenic crankshaft bolt - juggler
thank you for that, im hoping to replace the bolt within a couple of days, is it ok to tighten the bolt with the timing pin in and cam shaft bracket attatched to prevent the crank turning or would these attatchments not be sufficient for the torque involved, it is an automatic so cant i use the teeth on the starter ring. And should 100lb hold for now.

juggler
2000 1.6 scenic crankshaft bolt - Number_Cruncher
>>it is an automatic so cant i use the teeth on the starter ring

Why not?

Whatever you do, don't try to lock the crank by using anything on the cam - you'll cause serious damage.
2000 1.6 scenic crankshaft bolt - juggler
apparantly i read somewhere on the net, the flywheel on an automatic is of softer metal than a manual and the teeth wont take the torque?

so how do you stop the crankshaft from turning while tightening the nut?
use the timing pin to stop it turning?

thank you
2000 1.6 scenic crankshaft bolt - Peter D
The flywheel may be as it is not a clutch fiction material however the starter ring is the same. The proper tool for this has around eight teeth welded to a plate that are a negative image of the starter ring and the plate bolts onto the starter mounting and locks the flywheel. Speak to you local independant he may lend/rent it to you for a couple of hours. Regards Peter
2000 1.6 scenic crankshaft bolt - juggler
many thanks for the comments and answers, the situation is currently i have done about 300miles since my first question, ive obtained another bolt and attempted to remove the old one using the same principle as previous, but it hasnt budged and is still over 100lbs torque. i shall now obtain the tool as Peter D has mentioned and redo the job, er when ive found the starter motor!!!
great site, thanks, juggler