Hi,
I've had the clutch replaced on my 2003 Yaris a week ago. It'd done 61k miles and had started to judder when going past biting point. The clutch had also made an alarming smell a week before when I was on a hill, stop starting.
Details of replaced parts:
Clutch CVR.ASSY, Clutch REL.BRG and Clutch Plate
Since the clutch has been replaced I've noticed it can be very difficult getting into 2nd or even 3rd gear especially when it's cold. Given that it wasn't like this before I'm wary to agree to pay anything more (synchromesh?).
Is it realistic to ask the official Toyota garage to take another look and hope it's not going to cost me any more? Can anyone offer advice as to what it may be?
Thanks in advance,
David
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Sonds like clutch drag. If this is a hydaulic clutch then get them to bleed it and try again. If cable then the auto adjusteder may be stuck. Where if the bite point with the clutch. Did they change the gear box oil when they did the clutch. Regards Peter
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Hi, how would I know if it's a hydraulic / cable clutch? The bite point before the replacement was quite high and now it's a lot lower. I'm not sure if they changed the oil, there was no mention of this on the invoice.
Do you think it could be the synchromesh?
Given that I'm pretty much a begineer when it comes t cars although they're a dealership I'd still like to try and get an idea of what I can expect them to say or try and insist it is causing an even bigger hole in my wallet...
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Also which suggestions should I expect (hope) to get them to do for free and which I shouldn't expect to be related to the already costly clutch replacement.
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Just hope they checked and filled gearbox up with oil after the repair.
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Assuming it was the oil are you saying there could be real damage if they hadn't filled it up?
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Don't want to worry you but it's worth checking with clutch change some oil is often lost but not all. Like to think they would check it but you never know.
I would check just to be on safe side not sure how easy on Yaris though
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Thanks. Any other suggestions on what it may be and whether I should expect them to resolve this for free (coming under the 1 year warranty of the clutch) or whether I can believe them when they say, "oh, it's completed un-related..."
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"it's a lot lower." does not tell me where that point is, is this 2 cm from the floor or what.
Sit in the car with the engine running and hold the clutch 2/3 of the way down it's travel. Can you get the car into any forward gear with gentle pressure on the stick. If not keep the cluch at the same point, turn off and apply pressure to the gear stick again, if it slip in then the bite point it too low and the clutch is dragging. If it is a cable clutch ? then sit in the car, engine off, press the pedal to the bottom and let your foot slip off the side of the pedal allowing the pedal to shoot up, this will trigger the auto adjuster and may solve your problem, if it is a cable clutch. Open the bonnet and take a look as the gear box, is there a cable going to it that moves when a fried operates the clutch, or you you have two hydraulic header tanks, although they can share the brake tank. Regards Peter
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It's quite difficult to judge 2/3 of the way down to be honest. Let's say it was the clutch dragging could I expect them to fix this for free with already paying £100s for new clutch?
Edited by davidmt83 on 27/12/2008 at 22:35
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I need the results of all the tests I gave you. The garage should fix this totally for free. Regards Peter
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Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, Jjust rang Toyota and they suspect it's the oil with the older gearboxes having thicker oil which he'll change to thinner oil. Fingers crossed! Worrying no that they didn't change this to start with but oh well, I'm no mechanic so I can't talk!
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You say your are not a 'mechanic', nor are many of the staff at garages. They are 'fitters', they fit new bits, but not always correctly. Many do not have a full grasp of engineering skills needed to repair a modern car .
What garages are expert at is fobbing off customers who really should have a beeter deal. But this is ublikely to change- profits would suffer!
But, after a new clucth, the car should drive 'as new' with the pedal position back to when the car was new. Otherwise reject the repair.
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Mr TurboD
I take great exeption to your comments sir, 'fast-fit' type garages in general employ 'fitters' rather than fully qualified mechyanics / technicians, however a respectable main dealer (esp, a toyota one) will have tech's with an unbeleivably high (and expensive!) training, it's part of their dealer standards, if they don't adhere to these standards they lose the franchise. Also all work carried out is guaranteed for a minimum of one year, and often as in clutches guaranteed for 3 years.
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